Due to its aesthetics and innate properties, cashmere is one of the most prized fabrics in the world.
Martus apparel is created using fabrics from Loro Piana and Cariaggi, two internationally-renowned Italian suppliers of premium cashmere textiles
Cashmere is sourced from the mantle of the Hircus Laniger goat (Capra Hircus Laniger) of Central Asia. Our fine wool is named after this region, the mountainous Kashmir, where the first sightings of the species were recorded
Their natural habitat is perennially rainy and cold, thus their mantle has adapted in order to withstand these harsh conditions. The bracing temperatures allow the fibres to regenerate and grow even stronger every season. Since these goats live at very high altitudes, sometimes reaching 6000 m (about 19700 ft.), we know that their wool reacts positively to cold climates and water, while it does not respond well to the heat. Cashmere is a natural fibre (in fact, technically, it’s a hair) and will continue to react even when spun into fine yarns and knitted into fabric.
Our knowledge and expertise, and that of our partnered breeders, is a guarantee of optimal treatment of the fibre from start to finish. Once the product arrives in your home, it is your responsibility to keep it fresh and clean. Luckily, this is very simple and you can read more about it on
the Martus guide for washing cashmere..
Hircus goats are equipped with coarse hair, under which lies an undercoat of extra-fine fibres (also called
(duvet)
). Using a comb, these are collected by breeders during the moulting season. One adult goat typically yields between 100 and 200 grams (3.5 oz. and 7 oz.) of unaltered raw material. It is later sorted by hand according to colour, ranging from white to darker shades such as brown and black.
As a general rule of thumb, the colder the goat’s habitat, the longer the hair. This is why the most valued cashmere in the world comes from the goats of Mongolia, where winters are very long and cold and this allows for the hair to grow more rapidly.
Cashmere is 10 times more insulating than ordinary wool and is almost twice as soft. This is because cashmere fibres naturally generate pockets of air that retain
warmth and softness.
Depending on the treatment, a cashmere garment may be more or less prone to
experience pilling
(a natural phenomenon by which the fabric sheds fibres). The degree of resistance to pilling is measured according to a chart that goes from 1 to 5, with 5 indicating the strongest degree. A quality piece of cashmere is generally categorised as a 3 or 4 on the chart. A grade 5 is unachievable as it would require producers to alter the fibre and compromise its properties. However, pilling is preventable and you can learn how by reading
Martus guide for preventing and reducing pilling.
Yarn count refers to the system by which the thickness of a spun yarn is defined
It is a unit of textile measurement that indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn as well as the relationship between length and weight.
In Europe,
the most common count used for pure cashmere is 2/28.000, which means that two strands have been twisted in order to form a single one that is 28.000 metres in length per kilogram. The higher the numbers, the longer the production time.
In China,
the most popular count is 2/26.000. In this case, a lower count means that both price and quality of the fabric can decrease by 30%.
Accordingly, smaller counts such as 1/9000 are made from cheaper yarns (less than half the value of 2/28.000). Therefore, yarn counts are essential to establishing the quality and cost of the product. The number of plies is a determining factor too. The two-ply yarn (made from two threads twisted together) is the standard measure used in the industry and the perfect one for the creation of light-weight apparel. Heavier outerwear employs yarns made from the twisting of up to 12 strands, which are quite rare to find due to the much higher value. In spite of the cost however, one must consider that buying a 12-ply jumper would be a lifelong investment, one that reaches unparalleled levels of warmth and comfort.
Italy is a world leader in the production of cashmere apparel. In Italy, the manufacturing process needs to meet the highest industry standards, starting from the initial selection of the yarns. Pure cashmere, as opposed to treated one, is a hallmark of Italian creations. Martus uses only organic fabrics that are silicon and elastomer-free. These chemical blends (used by some industrial manufacturers to prevent pilling) are in fact responsible for several collateral effects, such as loss of insulation and texture, perspiration issues, and skin damage. High end artisanal productions will always employ 100% pure cashmere, as well as professionals with years of expertise in design, handling of materials, modes of production and quality assurance. Moreover, Italy is at the forefront of fulling and colouring technology advancement, which means that our textile feels more comfortable and looks more vibrant. If you intend to buy an Italian product, you will be guaranteed 100% pure cashmere apparel that has been designed, tested and packaged by expert hands. Artisanal production means that each item is given individual care from start to finish. By purchasing Italian cashmere you are effectively supporting the principles of the native industry, recognising the value of locally-based companies that prioritise quality over profit. Each piece of Italian knitwear is the result of long-held knowledge, ecologically conscious procedures and impeccable work ethos. This is why buying ‘made in Italy’ is the ultimate attestation of love to our culture of excellence.
Martus is a manufacturer of cashmere knitwear and accessories 100% made in Italy. Founded in 2018, Martus employs the best raw materials, which have been carefully selected and transformed into high-end apparel by true masters of fashion.
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